Adventures in Pai

One random weekend I decided to go explore a quiet little town in northern Thailand called Pai. I was told this was the quintessential hippie/backpacker hangout, but has since become more popular with tourists. I guess it still holds much of that same "charm", but now Pai prominently exists on the backpacker trail, and receives it's share of traffic.  Pai is tucked away in the mountains around Mae Hong Song (very northwest Thailand), just near the Burmese border. This beautiful village offers a great place to relax for a few days, and leisurely explore the stunning northern countryside.

So that's what I set out to do!

I decided to forgo the 600 baht bus ride up north for two reasons.  One: there are literally 700 switchbacks up the mountain to get there, and I get car sick pretty easily.  Two: I have a motorbike and knew this would be an incredibly scenic drive, and would definitely want to stop off and take pictures whenever I pleased.  It took me about three and half hours to reach this place that was maybe 80 mi outside of Chiang Mai.  

When I arrived, I took a friend's suggestion and hit up the Darling Viewpoint Bungalows, which is perched up on a hill with awesome views of the entire village, and a great mountain backdrop!  It was perfect, and a true Thai-style layout, which I love!  The owner/operator was named...yup, you guessed it, Darling!  She was this cute little lady living alone in this huge guesthouse. She was really sweet getting me arranged with everything, and made me feel right at home.  She always said things like, "Super happy you're here!", "The food is super good!", "I'm super happy today!", etc.  She was funny, and always had a smile on her face.  A total hippie herself, which I presumed was probably indicative of the overall vibe in Pai I'd heard so much about.  It was low season and there were only a few other guests, so I got to chat with her quite a bit.  

That night I was exhausted from my drive up in the boiling sun.  I grabbed a large beer, sat in one of the back deck hammocks and watched the entire sunset!  

Later that evening two guys, one Hollander and the other German, showed up and were staying in the same dorm.  They were traveling together, and eventually heading to Laos after their stay in Pai.  We chatted awhile, then they decided to hit up the local nightlife.  However, I decided to retire early, but made plans to meet them up the next morning.

I was up surprisingly early the next day, well before anyone else, and ventured into the village for some breakfast.  After some pretty standard yogurt with muesli, I decided to cross the bamboo bridge to see the river.  It was very quiet then, so I decided to take advantage of the silence and meditated by the river for about 30 min.  Afterwards, I felt really calm and energized for the day-meditation is always the best way to start the morning!  

I slowly meandered my way back through the village and watched some locals building some traditional Thai-style huts.  It's amazing watching them build these little bungalow huts with very limited supplies, probably using craftsmanship dating back centuries. They enjoyed the curious onlooker admiring their work.  I gestured with a friendly smile and continued on.

I met back up with my two new friends, and we decided to take out motorbikes around and explore the local attractions.  The first stop, a waterfall about a mile away.  What's great about Pai is all the stuff to see here is within a few mile radius, so you can cover a lot of ground in a short time. This was clearly a popular local sight, as there were a few groups of people already there enjoying the swim under the 40 foot waterfall.  There was an area you could climb up the rock and jump off, but only a few decided it was safe enough.  I threw caution to the wind and jumped first!  It was deep enough, so no worries at all. 

We chatted with some others enjoying this secluded pool area surrounded by steep overhanging walls of rock. 

It was an impressive little spot.

Next, we went further down the road to a huge ravine that promised some really cool views of the surrounding area.  The trails around the ravine were unique to say the least.  The narrow walking paths were all elevated high above the deep ravine crevasses.  It was stunning, and I've never seen anything like it. 

Some people didn't like the heights an stayed back, as the rest of us walked cautiously along the natural paths.  We quickly took notice of the looming dark clouds approaching.  So we decided to head out before we got dumped on.  

This time of year is the beginning of the rainy season, and when it rains here, it's torrential!  

Sure enough, halfway back to the village we got dumped on!  This really sucks when riding a motorbike because you have to obviously slow way down, but you're also trying to find a good balance between speed and safe driving to quickly escape the rain before you're soaked.  

Let's just say we didn't find that balance, but did make it back safely!  

We headed to a reggae bar called "No Cry", and chilled out while enjoying some much needed brews in our soaked clothes. Later that night, we would return to this same bar, which absolutely comes alive at night. Both locals and tourists hit up this late night spot, mainly because it's open later than other bars, and has an attached second bar with local live music all night.  Each evening, in the middle of the outdoor bar they ignite a massive bonfire where people sit around and play guitars and smoke weed.  

It all felt suitable for this lazy town full of hippies, and I had a feeling this is what happens here each and every night.    

Around 3am we decided to walk back to the guesthouse.  On our very intoxicated walk back through the dark, we were suddenly scared shit-less when some young guy out of nowhere, in the middle of nowhere, pops out of the bushes and tries to join the conversation like he had been with us the whole time, not realizing he just scared us to death! It was so so random! He was clearly drunk, lost, an couldn't even remember where he was staying.  We all laughed historically at this guy...like, what was he doing in the woods way out there before we came by? What if no one ever came by?  It made for a great laugh!

This guys was so completely faded! (I wish I had pictures of this moment!)

It was even funnier the next morning when we all gathered for breakfast and again, out of nowhere, this guys shows up at the same restaurant by himself, and he didn't even recognize or acknowledge us sitting right next to him!  We politely reminded him who we were, and all offered him some much needed water.  He had no clue who we were.  

Wow!

Unfortunately, I left quickly the next day.  I was invited to continue on to Laos with everyone, but I had to work the next day.  Darling checked me out, and gave me a customary bracelet that she makes for each guest who stays there.  It was again, another sweet touch Darling provides at her guesthouse-I highly recommend this place in Pai...and if you do, please grab my shoes while you're there, please!  

We parted ways and I headed down the mountain pass on my trusty steed!

About an hour into my ride, I got a flat tire.  Interestingly though, before I left for this trip I had a feeling this bike might encounter some problems traveling this far.  I definitely took my chances going against my gut.  Now, I'm in the middle of nowhere halfway up a mountain with no towns around for at least 30 miles.  So now, I'd have to hitchhike for the second time ever in my life back home to Chiang Mai-both times happened in the last four months here in Thailand!      

In these moments of near panic I revert to my meditation practice, concentrating on returning myself to a calmer and more positive state.  There isn't anything I could change about the situation, so I had a choice, either get pissed at myself, or, choose a more constructive emotion that would actually help me out here. So, I remained calm, took a moment to close my eyes and forcibly laugh at myself.  "I knew this was going to happen!"  Then I quickly found peace with it, opened my eyes and suddenly felt just fine.  I smiled at myself, held out my thumb and began walking, knowing it would all workout...somehow.

Seriously, within 5 minutes (no exaggeration) a truck passed and stopped for one of the passengers to take a piss. They didn't necessarily stop for me, but they quickly took notice and waved me over. They unfortunately didn't speak English, at all.  I gestured with my hands to explain my situation, which is something I'm getting really good at here, and then they asked me, "Chiang Mai?" I said yes, with the assumption that this was an offer to take me back there, and began incessantly thanking them for their help.  They loaded up my bike, and I hopped on the truck bed and headed down the mountain with some more new friends.  

This was one of those moments I felt that emotional/spiritual interconnection I channel when I meditate. Maintaining a positive outlook in that situation I believed saved me.  Yes, those guys actually saved me, but I do believe positive thinking attracts some positive outcomes in life, and know this happens to me quite often since I've been meditating. So, I relished in that moment in the back of that pickup, and smiled back at the Universe!  

We took a longer way back to Chiang Mai than what I remembered.  Again, they didn't speak English, and so I was at the mercy of their decided route back to the city.  We made a few stops and attempts at communicating, but to no avail.  They had a small girl with them, maybe around 4.  It seemed like I was the first white person she'd ever seen.  Driving down the road I'd catch her in the side mirror starring at me with her big curious eyes, sometimes for like ten minutes. It was funny, but no one likes to be starred at like a circus sideshow act.  

We made it to a town just outside of Chiang Mai called Mae Rim.  We stopped off at a local market and sat there waiting...for something or someone, I wasn't sure.  Now I was getting a bit anxious as to what we were actually doing. After 20 min a 50-something year old man pulls up on a brand new bright red crotch-rocket with a big cheesy smile on his face.  He shook my hand incredibly hard and asked if I was hungry.  "I'm always hungry!"  He laughed and told his friend, the driver of the truck and my savior, to follow him. 

Wait, where are we going now??  

We eventually made it to this guys house, where his wife, sister, cousin, etc. were all preparing for a Thai style BBQ.  The man offers me a drink and begins chatting with me about all things Chiang Mai.  Turns out he is a retired Thai police officer and is hosting a cookout for all his cop friends, who were on their way over right then.  I found this very interesting, and felt how incredibly hospitable, even for a cop!  

There were about 15 people that showed up and everyone was wildly curious about this strange white guy dining with the family.  Some of them spoke some baseline English, so many wanted to speak with me and practice their skills. They were so fascinated with me, and so I became fascinated with their fascination.  They were all really sweet and incredibly nice people, and I felt deeply grateful to them all for helping me and being so kind.  I couldn't thank everyone enough for their hospitality and for saving me up in the mountain.  A few of them wanted to take pictures with me and become my FB friend, so I obliged, although still feeling like a sideshow, it was all very endearing.  

After a few hours we headed back to Chiang Mai.  It started to rain, so I was growing impatient and ready to be home.  I was still sitting in the truck bed, pathetically trying to cover myself with t-shirts from my backpack.  Once we arrived, they unloaded my bike and dropped me off at my apartment.  I thanked them again for the awesome experience.  I earlier noticed the little girl had bracelets on her arm, so decided to give her the bracelet Darling had given me earlier, and felt it was appropriate for the circumstances.  She smiled bashfully, and hugged her dad happily with her new gift from the circus clown she couldn't stop starring at before.  

I can't say enough for Thai hospitality and their huge hearts, they always seem to bail me out of potentially dangerous situations I find myself in sometimes.  This is twice Thai people have gone out of their way to rescue me on the mountain with motorbike issues, and refusing any compensation afterwards.  

I was deeply touched by the whole experience.