Adventures in Pai

One random weekend I decided to go explore a quiet little town in northern Thailand called Pai. I was told this was the quintessential hippie/backpacker hangout, but has since become more popular with tourists. I guess it still holds much of that same "charm", but now Pai prominently exists on the backpacker trail, and receives it's share of traffic.  Pai is tucked away in the mountains around Mae Hong Song (very northwest Thailand), just near the Burmese border. This beautiful village offers a great place to relax for a few days, and leisurely explore the stunning northern countryside.

So that's what I set out to do!

I decided to forgo the 600 baht bus ride up north for two reasons.  One: there are literally 700 switchbacks up the mountain to get there, and I get car sick pretty easily.  Two: I have a motorbike and knew this would be an incredibly scenic drive, and would definitely want to stop off and take pictures whenever I pleased.  It took me about three and half hours to reach this place that was maybe 80 mi outside of Chiang Mai.  

When I arrived, I took a friend's suggestion and hit up the Darling Viewpoint Bungalows, which is perched up on a hill with awesome views of the entire village, and a great mountain backdrop!  It was perfect, and a true Thai-style layout, which I love!  The owner/operator was named...yup, you guessed it, Darling!  She was this cute little lady living alone in this huge guesthouse. She was really sweet getting me arranged with everything, and made me feel right at home.  She always said things like, "Super happy you're here!", "The food is super good!", "I'm super happy today!", etc.  She was funny, and always had a smile on her face.  A total hippie herself, which I presumed was probably indicative of the overall vibe in Pai I'd heard so much about.  It was low season and there were only a few other guests, so I got to chat with her quite a bit.  

That night I was exhausted from my drive up in the boiling sun.  I grabbed a large beer, sat in one of the back deck hammocks and watched the entire sunset!  

Later that evening two guys, one Hollander and the other German, showed up and were staying in the same dorm.  They were traveling together, and eventually heading to Laos after their stay in Pai.  We chatted awhile, then they decided to hit up the local nightlife.  However, I decided to retire early, but made plans to meet them up the next morning.

I was up surprisingly early the next day, well before anyone else, and ventured into the village for some breakfast.  After some pretty standard yogurt with muesli, I decided to cross the bamboo bridge to see the river.  It was very quiet then, so I decided to take advantage of the silence and meditated by the river for about 30 min.  Afterwards, I felt really calm and energized for the day-meditation is always the best way to start the morning!  

I slowly meandered my way back through the village and watched some locals building some traditional Thai-style huts.  It's amazing watching them build these little bungalow huts with very limited supplies, probably using craftsmanship dating back centuries. They enjoyed the curious onlooker admiring their work.  I gestured with a friendly smile and continued on.

I met back up with my two new friends, and we decided to take out motorbikes around and explore the local attractions.  The first stop, a waterfall about a mile away.  What's great about Pai is all the stuff to see here is within a few mile radius, so you can cover a lot of ground in a short time. This was clearly a popular local sight, as there were a few groups of people already there enjoying the swim under the 40 foot waterfall.  There was an area you could climb up the rock and jump off, but only a few decided it was safe enough.  I threw caution to the wind and jumped first!  It was deep enough, so no worries at all. 

We chatted with some others enjoying this secluded pool area surrounded by steep overhanging walls of rock. 

It was an impressive little spot.

Next, we went further down the road to a huge ravine that promised some really cool views of the surrounding area.  The trails around the ravine were unique to say the least.  The narrow walking paths were all elevated high above the deep ravine crevasses.  It was stunning, and I've never seen anything like it. 

Some people didn't like the heights an stayed back, as the rest of us walked cautiously along the natural paths.  We quickly took notice of the looming dark clouds approaching.  So we decided to head out before we got dumped on.  

This time of year is the beginning of the rainy season, and when it rains here, it's torrential!  

Sure enough, halfway back to the village we got dumped on!  This really sucks when riding a motorbike because you have to obviously slow way down, but you're also trying to find a good balance between speed and safe driving to quickly escape the rain before you're soaked.  

Let's just say we didn't find that balance, but did make it back safely!  

We headed to a reggae bar called "No Cry", and chilled out while enjoying some much needed brews in our soaked clothes. Later that night, we would return to this same bar, which absolutely comes alive at night. Both locals and tourists hit up this late night spot, mainly because it's open later than other bars, and has an attached second bar with local live music all night.  Each evening, in the middle of the outdoor bar they ignite a massive bonfire where people sit around and play guitars and smoke weed.  

It all felt suitable for this lazy town full of hippies, and I had a feeling this is what happens here each and every night.    

Around 3am we decided to walk back to the guesthouse.  On our very intoxicated walk back through the dark, we were suddenly scared shit-less when some young guy out of nowhere, in the middle of nowhere, pops out of the bushes and tries to join the conversation like he had been with us the whole time, not realizing he just scared us to death! It was so so random! He was clearly drunk, lost, an couldn't even remember where he was staying.  We all laughed historically at this guy...like, what was he doing in the woods way out there before we came by? What if no one ever came by?  It made for a great laugh!

This guys was so completely faded! (I wish I had pictures of this moment!)

It was even funnier the next morning when we all gathered for breakfast and again, out of nowhere, this guys shows up at the same restaurant by himself, and he didn't even recognize or acknowledge us sitting right next to him!  We politely reminded him who we were, and all offered him some much needed water.  He had no clue who we were.  

Wow!

Unfortunately, I left quickly the next day.  I was invited to continue on to Laos with everyone, but I had to work the next day.  Darling checked me out, and gave me a customary bracelet that she makes for each guest who stays there.  It was again, another sweet touch Darling provides at her guesthouse-I highly recommend this place in Pai...and if you do, please grab my shoes while you're there, please!  

We parted ways and I headed down the mountain pass on my trusty steed!

About an hour into my ride, I got a flat tire.  Interestingly though, before I left for this trip I had a feeling this bike might encounter some problems traveling this far.  I definitely took my chances going against my gut.  Now, I'm in the middle of nowhere halfway up a mountain with no towns around for at least 30 miles.  So now, I'd have to hitchhike for the second time ever in my life back home to Chiang Mai-both times happened in the last four months here in Thailand!      

In these moments of near panic I revert to my meditation practice, concentrating on returning myself to a calmer and more positive state.  There isn't anything I could change about the situation, so I had a choice, either get pissed at myself, or, choose a more constructive emotion that would actually help me out here. So, I remained calm, took a moment to close my eyes and forcibly laugh at myself.  "I knew this was going to happen!"  Then I quickly found peace with it, opened my eyes and suddenly felt just fine.  I smiled at myself, held out my thumb and began walking, knowing it would all workout...somehow.

Seriously, within 5 minutes (no exaggeration) a truck passed and stopped for one of the passengers to take a piss. They didn't necessarily stop for me, but they quickly took notice and waved me over. They unfortunately didn't speak English, at all.  I gestured with my hands to explain my situation, which is something I'm getting really good at here, and then they asked me, "Chiang Mai?" I said yes, with the assumption that this was an offer to take me back there, and began incessantly thanking them for their help.  They loaded up my bike, and I hopped on the truck bed and headed down the mountain with some more new friends.  

This was one of those moments I felt that emotional/spiritual interconnection I channel when I meditate. Maintaining a positive outlook in that situation I believed saved me.  Yes, those guys actually saved me, but I do believe positive thinking attracts some positive outcomes in life, and know this happens to me quite often since I've been meditating. So, I relished in that moment in the back of that pickup, and smiled back at the Universe!  

We took a longer way back to Chiang Mai than what I remembered.  Again, they didn't speak English, and so I was at the mercy of their decided route back to the city.  We made a few stops and attempts at communicating, but to no avail.  They had a small girl with them, maybe around 4.  It seemed like I was the first white person she'd ever seen.  Driving down the road I'd catch her in the side mirror starring at me with her big curious eyes, sometimes for like ten minutes. It was funny, but no one likes to be starred at like a circus sideshow act.  

We made it to a town just outside of Chiang Mai called Mae Rim.  We stopped off at a local market and sat there waiting...for something or someone, I wasn't sure.  Now I was getting a bit anxious as to what we were actually doing. After 20 min a 50-something year old man pulls up on a brand new bright red crotch-rocket with a big cheesy smile on his face.  He shook my hand incredibly hard and asked if I was hungry.  "I'm always hungry!"  He laughed and told his friend, the driver of the truck and my savior, to follow him. 

Wait, where are we going now??  

We eventually made it to this guys house, where his wife, sister, cousin, etc. were all preparing for a Thai style BBQ.  The man offers me a drink and begins chatting with me about all things Chiang Mai.  Turns out he is a retired Thai police officer and is hosting a cookout for all his cop friends, who were on their way over right then.  I found this very interesting, and felt how incredibly hospitable, even for a cop!  

There were about 15 people that showed up and everyone was wildly curious about this strange white guy dining with the family.  Some of them spoke some baseline English, so many wanted to speak with me and practice their skills. They were so fascinated with me, and so I became fascinated with their fascination.  They were all really sweet and incredibly nice people, and I felt deeply grateful to them all for helping me and being so kind.  I couldn't thank everyone enough for their hospitality and for saving me up in the mountain.  A few of them wanted to take pictures with me and become my FB friend, so I obliged, although still feeling like a sideshow, it was all very endearing.  

After a few hours we headed back to Chiang Mai.  It started to rain, so I was growing impatient and ready to be home.  I was still sitting in the truck bed, pathetically trying to cover myself with t-shirts from my backpack.  Once we arrived, they unloaded my bike and dropped me off at my apartment.  I thanked them again for the awesome experience.  I earlier noticed the little girl had bracelets on her arm, so decided to give her the bracelet Darling had given me earlier, and felt it was appropriate for the circumstances.  She smiled bashfully, and hugged her dad happily with her new gift from the circus clown she couldn't stop starring at before.  

I can't say enough for Thai hospitality and their huge hearts, they always seem to bail me out of potentially dangerous situations I find myself in sometimes.  This is twice Thai people have gone out of their way to rescue me on the mountain with motorbike issues, and refusing any compensation afterwards.  

I was deeply touched by the whole experience.  

When The Universe Speaks...I Listen

After I decided to move to Thailand, I was obviously nervous about my impending departure.  I was looking for any reinforcement I could find that would confirm I was making the right or wrong decision.

Well, when the universe talks to me, I certainly listen!

There were two notable moments that happened in the last month, in the time I left Seattle and moved to Thailand, that shook me to the core!  I mean, situations where undoubtedly, I know the universe was communicating with me.  You know, those moments that send all the hair on your arms straight up! 

Through meditation, I feel an enlightened sense of self-awareness, and a connection to something I can't really explain.  Maybe like how people feel with a religion, but with less rigidity.  Meditation is such a powerful tool that helps you connect to something that only you can understand in your own personal way.  It can align all the misdirected thinking and feeling into one transformative union between a heightened self-awareness and an improved well-being.  Creating a peace that is always present.  Like you can handle anything that crosses your path, and with no fear of what you can't control.  Life can feel a little easier to deal with.

The big "fad" now in spirituality, and frankly a revolution in modern psychology, is the concept of "mindfulness."  Derived back in the late 70's by an MIT-educated scientist, the idea was for individuals to be completely aware and purposeful in whatever they are doing in every passing moment.  Basically to only focus on what you are doing right now in that very moment, and nothing else. 

Seems simple, right?

Its about consciously thinking about washing your hands when you are washing them.  It's going on a walk and only thinking about what you are seeing and feeling on that walk in that moment.  It's about eliminating the consuming thoughts of the past or future, and to just be in the "now." To be mindful of your existence right this second, because the only thing that exists IS this moment, right "now!"

In a digitally dependent society, and the fact human beings have only slightly evolved away from our animalistic fight or flight impulses, its no surprise that we can't seem to take the time to just "stop and smell the roses."  If distraction is the preeminent condition of our modern society, then mindfulness meditation must be the answer to slowing this predisposition down a bit.

When you become more aware of the "now," things do slow down, and the universe starts to really talk to you...but only if you are listening. 

So, here are two instances when the universe was shouting at me, and all I could do was listen.


Moment #1

I was flying home for Christmas, Christmas Eve actually, literally to say goodbye to friends and family one last time, not knowing when I'll actually see them next.  I boarded my connecting flight from Denver to Indianapolis, sat down in my seat, and prepared to throw on the headphones and pass-out for the remaining leg of my flight.  I don't usually talk to people sitting next to me on the plane, and if I do, it's only because someone started talking to me.  Sometimes it's nice to just zone out and not be bothered with idle conversation sitting on an uncomfortable airplane.

There was a young newly wed couple next to me, and they were both super friendly and began casually chatting with me.  Ok, fine.  They were from Indy, and we started talking about their move to Denver, and discussed my pending move as well.  He perked up when I told him I was moving to Thailand, as his brother had just done the same, but uprooted to India.

We discussed what inspired my move, and also what inspired his brother's as well.  It sounded like our stories were quite similar.  His brother found some inspiration from a book he had read earlier that helped him make the decision to move, and suggested I read it.  The book was called "The Dharma Bums," by Jack Kerouac.  I was certainly looking for my next travel read, and so I obliged. I wrote the title down on a piece of paper along with the young guy's name and email.  I was thankful for the suggestion, but didn't think much of it.  I told him I would totally read it before I left.

My parents met me at the terminal to take me back home.  My brothers were both waiting at the house, and I was greeted by my whole family together, it was really nice seeing everyone - my first Christmas back home in three years.  We sat around and chatted pretty late, and all discussed exchanging gifts that night instead of the next morning, mostly because we knew we weren't going to be up that early. (copious amounts of wine was being consumed) I shared all my gifts I'd brought back from Thailand, and my parents and brothers all exchanged theirs with me.

The last gift I received was from my little brother Kyle.  Kyle certainly shares in my spiritual beliefs, and knew he would certainly give me a gift of meaning and inspiration.  He hands me the gift, and I began to open it.  The moment I opened the present and peeled back the last piece of wrapping paper, finally exposing itself, I suddenly fell completely silent.  Everyone looked at me, and were confused by my reaction.  I stood up and freaked out a little!

It was the exact book the kid on the plane had just told me to read two hours earlier!  It was "The Dharma Bums," by Jack Kerouac!!! 

Of all the travel novels in existence, or books that inspire things of that nature, it had to be this book!

It was overwhelming how creeped out I felt!  But, I could see and feel the significance.

Within two hours of getting off the plane, having this short, seemingly meaningless conversation with a complete stranger, someone I never would've talked to otherwise, coupled with my serious intentions of keeping my promise to this person, it was here, NOW, in my hands!  It was the exact same book!

This is the universe talking to me loud and clear.  It still sends chills down my spine. To me, this isn't coincidence!  This is something powerful, and it confirmed I was on my right path.

Whether I read this book or not, it's a powerful and obvious energy force that entered my own.  

It's something telling me to follow this inspired journey.   

Moment #2

Once I arrived in Thailand, I was eager to rent a motorbike and jet up into the mountains right outside of Chiang Mai.  The beautiful lower lands of the southern Himalayas are so breathtaking.  A wild untamed jungle, nestled in a stunning green landscape overlooking the city from above. 

I didn't know where I was driving, but there didn't seem to be too many other roads going up, so, I just headed straight up!  I soon stumbled upon a little town called Doi Suthep, which appeared rather touristy. There was yet another big temple perched up on the ledge of a cliff, with a staircase up to it that looked rather daunting, so I continued on driving.  It was realty hot out, and I just wasn't in the mood for all that climbing, plus, it was just another temple and I'd seen plenty at this point.

I went to a national park about a mile up the highway.  I parked, and began trekking though the forest, not really knowing where I was going.  Very responsible, right?  It was all so beautiful, so I just kept walking. Well, low and behold, I ended up back at Doi Suthep, and back at the base of that formidable staircase to this temple I earlier wanted nothing to do with.  How did I end up here again?

At this point, I figured what the hell, I'm here, just do it!   I meandered my way up to the temple, and wow, it was stunning!  All the gold, the huge Buddhas, the aroma of temple incense, and all the monks giving blessings inside.  I knelt down and was blessed by a monk, took my pictures then decided to head back.

It was sweltering hot outside, and once I made it back to my guesthouse, I needed to lay down and possibly take a nap.

When I was purging my life belongings back in Seattle, I really had to get rid of everything.  Anything of modest importance had to go, especially anything with weight.  However, there was one book that I'd been reading the last few months, even before my first trip to Thailand, with little to no frequency, but for some odd reason thought even with just the one chapter left, I should still bring this book and finish it.  I debated this, but felt I'd read the last chapter on the plane and get rid of it once in Thailand.

Once back in my room, I couldn't sleep because of the heat, the ceiling fan just did not suffice.  I was bored and with no Internet, so I decided to finally open up that book and finish that last chapter.  This book wasn't a page turner by any means, which was the main reason I didn't bother reading it during my 26 hours in the air.  I really wasn't in the mood to read at that moment, and desiring a quick nap, I figured reading it would put me sleep.

The book was called "Yoga for People Who Can't be Bothered to Do It," by Geoff Dyer.

I began reading the final chapter, as the author talked about his time at Black Rock City, for Burning Man.  Comparing experiences that can be achieved in a place that only exists for one week, to those spiritual experiences at holy sites around the world.  Places that have stood the test of time.   

My eyes began to soften with disinterest, and I could feel a good nap coming on.

This book is a travel novel, and discussed Geoff's experiences all over the world, but nothing about any time spent in Thailand, just a brief excerpt about his time in Cambodia.

However, the next paragraph shot me right out of bed!  I was wide awake now. 

You can see the last sentence in the first page on the left image below, where he suddenly takes the focus from Black Rock City to a random temple in Chiang Mai!  Wait, Chaing Mai?

I continued reading the small paragraph on the next page about this temple he had visited, and he mentioned a gold leaf, and I remembered this gold leaf!  WTF!! 

Now, there over over 200 temples in Chiang Mai, and although this is a famous one (there are like 50 famous ones), its hard to get to way up in the mountains, so far off the beaten path.  This just couldn't be the same one.

 
I did a quick Google search, and BAM!!  There it was, the exact same temple I was just at moments ago.  Even the first image that popped up in Google was the exact shot I just took and posted to Facebook early that afternoon.  I was just completely shocked!

My picture

   

The chain of events are baffling to me with how random it all was.

The book that I planned to discard before I left, and was really disinterested in reading altogether.  The random trip up into the mountains that afternoon, up that particular side of the mountain.  The random temple I didn't feel like visiting and drove past, but somehow stumbled back upon without realizing, and feeling compelled to visit it once there.  All within the same hour, I decide to return to my room, and very randomly open the last chapter of this book to fall asleep to, and within only two pages the author randomly mentions his time at this exact temple, when the whole chapter is literally about Burning Man.  It's just one single paragraph in this book mentioning this temple, nothing more about it or Thailand. The timing of it just blows my mind!  I had been putting off reading this book for months. The unique circumstances and timing of my randomness that day couldn't have been anymore perfect for this to occur. 

It was a perfect storm alright!

The universe was clearly telling me:  I am where I'm suppose to be right now, in this moment. 

There's simply no denying this fact.

It moved me to tears, and still does.  It was overwhelming how powerful it felt, but I knew there was something greater at work here.  It all happened for a reason.  The reason telling me to continue this inspired journey.

I hear you universe, loud and clear!